You buy a new pair of shoes. You put them on for the first time, and they may feel a little uncomfortable, but the shoes are your size. Have you wondered why? The template of the shoe has been cut using a general template for the average foot size and shape. No matter what pair of shoes you buy, you’ll never get the perfect fit.
Similar to shoes, men’s suits are cut by standard templates for each of the various sizes. Off the rack suits assume you will fit into one of the cookie cutter sizes.
Black Men’s Dossier talks with Eaden Myles, founder of Eaden Myles Company, an Ontario based clothier offering high fashion European inspired men's suits. The inspiration behind the Eaden Myles collection started with a trip to Ghana, seeing men wear ill-fitted suits, the Eaden Myles collection was born. Thus, Myles is the perfect designer to discuss why any sartorial should own a perfectly tailored custom suit.
Off The Rack Suits
Off the rack suits are normally sized from 36 to 52. The width of your chest in inches determines your size. “If you have a 36 inch chest you most likely will wear a size 36 suit. Most suits are manufactured with a 6 inch drop from the waist to the chest. For example, a 36 inch chest will equal a 30 inch waist” says Myles. This standard sizing will also determine the length of the sleeves and trousers of the suit.
These suit sizes often come in a regular, long or short by adding or removing a inch and a half to two inches on the sleeves of the suit. Depending on the body type, Myles says, “sometimes the suit will still have to be altered to fit your frame or your limbs”. This is normal for the statuesque perfectly proportioned man.
If the number of alterations you have to make on your suit are minimal, an off the rack suit is a perfect choice for you. For others, a few designers and department stores combat the sizing irregularities with suit separates. You can purchase a suit jacket close to your chest size and trousers close to your waist and inseam size. Hunting through the racks for the perfect combination can be an exhaustive search.
There is quite a large selection of off the rack suits. Off the racks suits are generally priced from $200 to over $1000. The price depends on several factors – designer, fabric, and construction.
Custom Tailored Suits
Looking good in a suit comes down to the fit. It’s not the color or the pattern of the suit. It is how well the suit fits you. You can wear the best fabric. Yet, you’ll look slovenly orchestrated in an ill-fitted suit.
No one man is shaped the same way. “If you are the type of gentleman who has broad shoulders, a big chest, and a small waist, you will often find that purchasing an off the rack suit comes with having to do a ton of adjustments” say Myles.
Custom tailored suits also give you the option of constructing the suit according to your preferential style. Beyond the cut and fit, you can choose all of the attributes of the suit. Do you want a peak lapel or notch lapel? How many buttons – one or two? Do you want a single or double breasted suit?
With the recent introduction of offshore tailoring, you can purchase a custom tailored suit for roughly $400 to over $1000. Similar to the off the rack suits, the fabric, tailor and inner constructed components of the suit determine the price.